From 1" x 2" stock (actual 3/4" x 1"1/2) cut:

4 pieces 15" long
4 pieces 5"1/2 long

Use the above to make 2 frames for the front and back of the loom.

From 1" x 4" stock (actual 3/4" x 3"1/2) cut:

2 pieces 20" long for side rails

In each side rail drill 2 holes that are 1"1/4 in diameter. You may have to enlarge these slightly so that the rollers can turn freely in them. Center the holes 2"1/2 from each end and down l"1/4 from the top edge.

For the castle:

From 1" x 2" stock cut:

2 pieces 15" long
1 piece 6" long.
This is the handle. You may want to shape the bottom (or the roller) so that it can be attached solidly. Counterbore two holes for mounting screws.

From 1"1/4 closet pole cut:

2 pieces 13"1/2 long.

This dimension may have to be adjusted. It assumes that the 1" x 2" side pieces are exactly 3/4" thick. Overall width of the castle is to be 15".

Cut 2 lengths of 1"1/4 closet pole 16"5/8 long for the cloth roller and the warp roller.

Assemble castle as shown. Use 1"1/2 flat head screws. Do not over-tighten top piece as it must be able to rotate.

Cut two circular knobs 3" in diametcr out of 3/4" stock. (You may find plywood best for these.) Drill 12 holes about 1/4" from the outside edge as shown. Holes should be a diameter such that you can insert a nail or piece of coat hanger wire to use as a lock to hold the knob from moving. Fasten each knob to the end of a roller using two screws so that the knob will not rotate on the roller.

Make 2 washers 2" in diameter with a 1"1/4 hole. Use 1/8" masonite.

Also make 2 retainer disks 2" in diameter using 1/8" masonite.

Assemble the loom as shown in the diagram. Attach the end frames with 1"1/4 flat head screws. Mount the castle so there is a greater distance from the front of the loom than from the back. I suggest that the distance from the front edge of the side rails to the center of the castle be 11". Place a washer on each roller before you slide it into the holes which are beariugs. At the end of each roller where there is no knob, attach the retainer discs so the roller can not slide out. Whether you place the knobs at the left or right is a personal decision up to you. After the loom has been assembled, through one hole in each knob, drill a same size hole into the side rail. You can then fashion a pin for locking the knob.

Mount heddles in thc castle as shown:

Suspend heddles from round or flat steel bars depending on the type of heddles purchased. (You can even make your own heddles out of string.) The bars are attached to cords or chains to suspend the heddles between the round pieces. The top cords or chains are fastened to the top piece so that as you rotate it, it lifts the heddles on one side while dropping those on the other side. (This is called a counter balance loom.) Do not fasten cords at the bottom. They are meant to just slide around the bottom piece. The cords need to be tight enough so that as one side is pulled up, the other side is pulled down. The length of the cords will depend on the size of the heddles. The heddles should be positioned so that when in the neutral position (back and front heddles aligned), the eyes of the heddles should be at the same height as the front and back beams (top of end frames.)

You must also make a beater, to hold the reed. (The reed may either be a purchased reed or one that you make yourself. Instructions for making a reed are available on another page.) The dimensions will depend on the size reed that you get. The overall width should be slightly less than 15" so that it will fit inside the loom and be free to move. On the inside of the side rails, near the bottom, put in some 1"1/2 long round head screws to serve as pivot points for the beater. They should be mounted about halfway between the front of the loom and the castle but you might find it desirable to put in 2 or 3 sets at different locations so that you can move the beater. Cut slots in the bottom of the beater side pieces so that you can slide the beater on to the pivots. The height of the beater should be such that when it is vertical, the center of the reed is at or slightly above the height of the front and back beams.

In order to hold the reed in the beater, the top piece, "A", should either have a groove on its lower side, or you can fasten two narrow strips of wood to form a groove that the reed will fit. Likewise, the lower piece, "B", should have the same treatment on its upper side. The top piece should be fastened to the side pieces with screws so that it is removable for mounting or dismounting the reed. The distance between pieces "A" and "B" is to be determined from the height of the reed that will be used.

Return to Bob Stuff Craft Two page.